Pairings | Roast lobster

Wine with lobster: 6 of the best pairings
There’s such an obvious wine match for lobster (great chardonnay) that you might wonder if it was worth considering anything else but there are other interesting alternatives.
Most of them are admittedly similarly weighty whites - white Rhône, oaked white Rioja, white Bordeaux and Viognier but you could if you were feeling adventurous consider a red, especially with a powerful sauce like a thermidor. A full-bodied red burgundy like Volnay should be able to cope.
Despite the fact that lobster has become a lot cheaper in recent years it’s still a luxury ingredient which makes a good excuse to splash out. Here are my top 5 choices:
Premier or grand cru Chablis
The best match with cold lobster with mayo on the evidence of this pairing I enjoyed in Ireland a few years ago with a just-caught fresh lobster from Ballycotton. No reason why you shouldn’t drink such shellfish favourites as Albarino, Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé of course
Meursault, other serious white burgundy or world class chardonnay
The ideal match for grilled lobster. Also works brilliantly with a lobster burger as you can see I discovered here.
Vintage - or good non-vintage - champagne
Great for a splash-out occasion. Particularly good with lobster and chips
Condrieu
A recent discovery as you can see from this Match of the Week. (A rare, glorious and expensive appellation for viognier, if you haven't come across it before.)
Gewurztraminer
One of the best lobster pairings ever was at a restaurant called Everest in Chicago run by an Alsace-born chef called Jean Joho. It was a dish of lobster cooked with ginger and gewurztraminer (the two have a great affinity) and served with the same wine. Ever since I’ve thought gewurz the perfect match for spicy lobster dishes.
Bandol rosé or other top-of-the-range Provençal rosé
An unusual pairing but one I think works with lobster dishes with an intense shellfish sauce like lobster thermidor or even a lobster bisque (though those will go with chardonnay too). Tavel would be another good pairing.
In the unlikely event you have any leftover lobster you may enjoy this recipe for Lobster thermidor baked potatoes from Mark Hix and there’s a ‘cheat’s’ way of jazzing up a cooked lobster here.
Image © Olga Lyubkin - Fotolia.com

The best food pairings for Pinot Noir
Pinot noir is one of the most versatile red wines to match with food and a great option in a restaurant when one of you is eating meat and the other fish.
There are ingredients that will pair with practically any pinot noir, for example, it's a classic wine match for duck. Pinot can also pair well with salmon or tuna, depending on the way you’ve cooked them and the style of pinot you’re drinking.
Here are some food pairings for different styles of pinot noir, most of which (barring the mature pinots) should be served cool or chilled:
Light, fresh pinots
Such as: inexpensive red burgundy, Alsace pinot noir and other less expensive pinots, especially from poor vintages
Good pairings: Charcuterie, ham and other cold meats. Patés and terrines. classic French dishes with light creamy sauces such as rabbit or kidneys with a mustard sauce. Goat cheese. Grilled asparagus. Spring vegetables such as peas
The best pairings with red burgundy
Sweetly fruited pinots
Such as: those from Chile, New Zealand and California with bright berry fruit
Good pairings: Dishes with a touch of spice such as crispy duck pancakes (and hoisin duck bao buns as I've recently discovered!), grilled quail, pulled or char siu pork, seared salmon and tuna. Barbecues. Roast or other cooked beetroot dishes. Dishes that include cherries or figs like this duck and fig combination at Kooyong in the Mornington Peninsula
Silky, elegant pinots
Such as: top red burgundy and other Burgundian-style pinots
Good pairings: Roast chicken or guineafowl (even with lots of garlic as this post illustrates. Pigeon. Rack of lamb, served pink. Rare fillet steak and carpaccio. Beef Wellington. Roast pork with herbs and fennel. Chicken or turkey sausages. Calves liver, sweetbreads. Dishes with morels and other wild mushrooms. Mushroom risotto. Roast or grillled lobster
Rich, full-bodied pinots
Such as: those from Central Otago or pinots from a hot vintage
Good pairings: Butterflied lamb, chargrilled steak, venison. Dishes like cassoulet or duck with olives if they’re more rustic. Roast goose. Hare Royale as you can see from this post. Coq au vin where the sauce is made with pinot noir. Glazed ham. Roast turkey. Brie and similar cheeses. Milder blue cheeses such as Gorgonzola dolce.
Mature, truffley pinots
Such as: older vintages of Burgundy
Good pairings: feathered game such as grouse, partridge and pheasant. Cold game pie. Dishes with truffles.
See also
Top pairings with pinot noir - Natasha Hughes' report from the 2009 International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC)
Pinot Noir and Asian food - some observations from Ch'ng Poh Tiong
Pinot Noir and lamb - my report on a workshop at the 2011 IPNC
9 Fine Wine Matches for Duck - Including Pinot Noir and other suggestions
Photo by freeskyline at shutterstock.com

Which foods pair best with tawny port?
We rarely think of tawny port as a flexible pairing for food. We serve it with stilton, obviously and with hard cheeses like cheddar, with nuts and dried fruits and over Christmas with fruit cake and mince pies but that’s usually as far as it goes.
True, its sweetness suggests desserts and cakes rather than savoury dishes but like other strong dessert wines it can do sterling service at the start of a meal, particularly if it’s - as is increasingly fashionable - lightly chilled. And even with sweet things you should ensure - as is the case with other dessert wines - that your dessert is not far sweeter than your port.
On the spot
A Portuguese favourite with tawny port are the rich eggy pastries that you find in the pastelerias (patisseries) and creamy desserts such as crème caramel. Figs and (elvas) plums are also considered good matches. (According to Christian Seely of Quinta do Noval tawny is superb with fig tart) My own star match, improbable as it might sound, is bread pudding, a brilliant combination I came across on a visit to Lisbon a few years ago.
Sheep's cheeses also work well especially what is by common consent one of Portugal’s finest, the rich creamy Queijo Serra - highly prized by cheese connoisseurs
Why not try:
10 year old tawnies with:
- sherry-style with salted roast almonds
- chicken or duck liver parfait or other meaty pâtés and terrines
- presunto (Portuguese air dried ham) or Spanish jamon iberico
- pecan, almond or walnut tart or cakes
- apple, pear or banana tatin
- a compote of dried fruits
- crème brûlée
- cheesecake (without red fruits)
- ginger-flavoured cakes and puddings
See also my post on caramel-flavoured desserts and tawny port
20 year old tawnies with:
- foie gras - a rich, nutty alternative to Sauternes, it will pick up on a sweet accompaniment such as balsamic vinegar or prunes
- roast lobster (according to Calem)
- feathered game such as pheasant and partridge
- hard sheep's milk cheeses such as Ossau Iraty and Manchego, mature Gouda, parmesan
- dark, bitter chocolate and chocolate truffles (Valrhona’s Caraibe and Choua are recommended by the Chocolate Society)
- biscotti
- panforte di Siena
- roasted chestnuts (a great suggestion from Jose Carneiro of Wiese & Krohn)
In the kitchen
Tawny port is a useful ingredient for any cook to have to hand, especially for deglazing pans. It works particularly well with chicken livers, lambs liver and kidneys and will also add richness to slow-braised meat sauces.You can also use it as a base for a sabayon or zabaglione
A version of this article was first published in Decanter magazine
Image ©anna_shepulova at Adobe Stock.
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